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[fabric dying] spindle processing

Author
화인Tnc
Date
2019-01-18 16:35
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453
Spindle processing

WRINKLING

Wrinkles don’t matter usually to typica synthetic fabric, because they are restorative even after being deformed. That is why synthetic fabric is made mainly by mixing up cotton and polyester through durable press processing.
Fabrics with high resilience - DuPont's Qiana, olefin, diacetates, triacetate
SHRINKAGE

2 types of shrinkage are relaxation shrinkage and contraction shrinkage.

Causes of relaxation shrinkage

1. strain on yarn during weaving or knitting
2. stretching fabric during consecutive processing such as bleaching or dying
3. heat and humidity

Causes of contraction shrinkage

Fabric itself can be the cause or clothing might be the cause as well. Jumbled up during washing up yarn, making wrinkles and causing shrinkage
1. pelting shrinkage – usual to wool, developed by heat, moisture or strain
2. easily observed when thermoplastic fabrics reach softening point and becomes softened. polymers can move at this temperature
3. observed in nearly stable contracted acrylics, developed by heat or hot water
4. knitwear

Both cases are plausible. In many cases, relaxation shrinkage becomes main cause, but during the last finishing stage, knit may shrink because of loop deformation and home-cleaning. Loops get to be tangled a lot if it gets deformed at once.

Loss of dimension in cotton occurs when spun becomes yarn. It is because of plasticity of fabric when it gets exposed to water. When dried, it gets half-permanently slippery.

viscos-type rayon – undetermined areas let in more water than cotton. This causes more plasticity; synthetic acrylics are used to fill in these areas during permanent press stabilization process.

Excessive drying may shorten length of fibers in cotton fabric.
Permanent press may cause hardening.
permanent press 에 사용되는 합성수지들 synthetic acrylics used in permanent press

urea/formaldehyde: first discovered acrylics. They can fill in undetermined areas found in fabric, especially in case of rayon. But these are found to contain chlorine which causes yellowing.

Dialdehyde glyoxal: mainly used to prevent shrinkage of cross-linkage rayon. not a strong anti-wrinkle agent, but does not have chlorine

Silicon: used with synthetic acryl to foster wrinkle restorability. but using this alone does not guarantee dimension stability. prevents wrinkles by working as lubricant

DMEW: used in permanent press. restoring wrinkles of cotton clothing. no chlorine

Finishing with amine leaves chlorine but still softens the clothing. But tension gets lowered due to loss of tension coefficient. Yellowing and grinding is occasionally observed in synthetic acrylics with amine. Cracks along folded parts of clothing may occur when storing processed clothing. Some fishy odor can occur due to formaldehyde wastes.