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[washing information] washing tips
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화인Tnc
Date
2019-01-18 16:00
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568
1. Spotting
It is nearly impossible to remove all the stains by only washing with dry-cleaning washer. Therefore, partially removing stains before and after dry-cleaning using special chemicals is necessary.
This is called spotting. The reason why customers use laundromats is mostly because to remove stains, so it is to be noted that this stage is the most important one during the whole washing process.
(1) equipment used in spotting
1) Spotting board
2) Spotting gun
3) Spray spotter
4) Spotting brush
5) Spatula
6) Towel
7) beaker, cotton and etc.
(2) Chemicals used in spotting
It is a common thing for laundromats to worry about ruined clothing, which means if there is no damages occurred to clothing, everything will be fine for the business owners. Then what is the main culprit for damaging clothing? It is mostly due to choosing improper chemicals. Thus, it is necessary to have appropriate understanding in chemicals.
A. Neutral lubricant: it is a so-called spray soap. This fosters the solvent to remove stains during washing by being applied to dryside stains or wetside stains which are easy to remove before getting dry-cleaned. Common market products are mostly recommended to use in the form mixture containing water in portion of 1:4(water). They are put into spray spotter for use.
B. Dryside chemicals
They are used to remove dryside stains as they rarely contain water. (Examples of oil stain: ink, lipstick, grease, cooking oil and etc.) Dryside chemicals currently sold differ in their capacities by brands so they should be chosen according to the type of fabrics or stains.
If strong chemicals are used to remove stains well, clothing susceptible to bleaching may lose its color with stain only to ruin the whole clothing. That is why in this case chemicals safe from bleaching should be used even though some of the stains may remain.
C. Wetside chemicals
Most of these chemicals are used in mixture of water in order to remove wetside stains. Wetside chemicals include acidic and alkaline chemicals.
1) Acidic chemicals (TAN) – easily dissolved in water
- Turns a litmus paper red.
- Used to remove tannin stains such as drink, juice, coffee and wine
- Restores tarnishing due to alkaline
- Insoluble to solvent; remove after using chemicals and then put into dry-cleaning
- Used for alkaline neutralization
2) alkaline chemicals (BPR)
- Easily dissolved in water
- Turnsa litmus paper blue
- Usedto remove protein stains such as milk, urine, blood and food
- Restores tarnishing due to acid
- Insoluble to solvent; remove after using chemicals and then put into dry-cleaning
- Used for acidic neutralization
- If used to pure wool or silk, should be neutralized with acidic chemicals to prevent yellowing
D. Enzyme agents: Digester in English, stain remover containing enzymes. Enzymes are special protein made in living organisms to break down minerals. Certain stains are removed only with enzymes.
1) Use of digester
Applied to protein and starch stains difficult to remove, such as blood, egg, milk, cream, vomitus, urine, swet and etc. Also can be used to alkaline-sensitive fabric or colors.
2) 4 conditions of enzyme reactions
- Neutral without acid or alkaline
- Contains moisture
- Optimal temperature
- Enough time for reaction
3) How to use digester
3 Ways to use digester powder
a. Pre-spotting
Put 1 tsp of digester powder into 8 oz of warm water (110-110F), or mix with 4 oz of water / 4 oz of neutral lublicrant and put it into spray. Digester solution should be made everyday.
Apply solution on stain and let the clothing in a warm place for approx. 15-20 minutes. Be cautious not to dry out thestain and apply leveling agent (mix a dry-cleaning detergent and pure solvent in the portion of 3:7). Remove stain after 15-20 minutes with protein chemical and finally clean.
b. Digester bath
Mix 1 tsp of Digester with 1 gal of warm water (100~110F). Soak clothing for 15-20 minutes, rinse and then dry.
c.Spotting board
Lay a clean towel under the stain. Soak it with warm water. Put small amount of powder Digester and a few drops of a netural lubricant. Gently rub it with a spatula. Apply heat with a steam gun far from the clothing about 10-12 inches. Cover it with another towel. Leave it for 15-20 minutes. Rinse with steam, dry well and then dry-clean.
How to use liquid type Digester
a. Spotting board
Rinse the stain with water or steam to remove other spotting chemicals.
Directly apply the liquid Digester onto the stain. Heat it up with a steam gun far from the clothing about 4-5 inches.
Pay attention not to scatter Digester. Leave it for about 30 minutes.
Use BPR, wash it off, dry and then dry-clean.
b. Digest Bath 방식 Digest bath
Mix 1 tbsp of liquid Digester with 1 gal of warm water.
Rinse off other chemicals remaining on clothing. Soak the clothing in for about 10-30 minutes. Rinse off with steam or water and then dry.
c. Submerging
In case of washable clothing, mix 1 oz of liquid Digester with 6 gal of warm water and soak the clothing in about 10-30 minutes. Add up reasonable amount of detergent and wash as usual.
E. Ingredients of General Formula
1) Ingredients of General Formula
Acetic acid, lactate, hydroxyl, butylalcohol, methylalcohol. As such, General Formula consists of 3 acidic chemicals and 2 alcoholic substances.
2) Stains which General Formula can remove
a. Stubborn tannin stains (deep-seated ones which 28% of acetic acid cannot remove)
b. Stains removable with hydroxyl
c. Yellow oxidized stains on white clothing
d. Ingrained stain including nitrocellulose, selectin, resin. (Applicable to all types of stains excluding protein stains. Complex stains removable. Since yellow oxidized stains on acetate fabric as well as white fabrics are mostly removed by General Formula, rather than blindly using bleachers using General Formula beforehand is more ideal.)
3) How to use General Formula
a. Mechanical action: Gently rub with spatula or pat it with brush.
b. Fostering effects: after mechanical action, apply heat with a steam gun.
c. Flushing: Much caution is needed when washing off General Formula. Even a bit of hydroxyl in General Formula left on clothing turns into tiny powder and penetrates into fabric, thereby cutting off knots in fabric. It is therefore essential to wash the product off thoroughly after use.
4) General caution when using General Formula
- The product shouldn’t be used with alkaline spotting chemicals or alkaline bleachers. If combined with alkaline chemicals, neutralization occurs due to reaction with 3 acids in the solution and thereby producing poisonous carbon monoxide or carbon dioxide gas.
-Excessive mechanical action after using General Formula on colored fabric should be avoided.
-Excessive mechanical action on colored acetate fabric or dark-colored plant fabric may induce bleaching.
-Even though it is white-colored, on the acetate fabric, using a steam gun too close to the clothing after using General Formula should be avoided. Let at least 4 inches of distance be far from the clothing. Especially when excessive steam is applied to a dark-colored fabric after using General Formula, bleaching takes place almost with no doubt.
-Avoid applying perchloroethylene or dry-cleaning solvent consecutively after using General Formula on stain. Except for the purpose of flushing, if General Formula is used with perchloroethylene or dry-cleaning solvent, alcohol in General Formula solution melts down and spoils the solution.
(3) Correlation between fabric and chemicals
A good spotter knows well about the correlation between fabric, stain and used chemicals.
It is because neutralizing tarnished colors due to chemicals and effective stain removal is directly related to characters of fabric and chemicals.
1) Types of fabric
a. Plant fabric (Cellulose) - acidic character Cotton Linen Rayon, Ramie
b. Animal fabric - alkaline character Wool, silk, Leather
c. Half-synthetic fabric - Acetate(synthesizing plant fabric including cotton by processing with acetate)
d. Synthetic fabric: Polyester, Nylon, Acryl, Olefin(for funiture such as couch cover)
2)Characters of chemicals used
a. Acidic chemicals – 28% of acetate or tannin formula
- General Formula
- Rust Remover b. Alkaline chemical – 26% of ammonia
- Protein Formula c. Neutral – neutral detergent put into spray spotter for use
(4) Proper spotting and rules for stain removal
Spotting is the most important stage and the most dangerous part of dry-cleaning. It is therefore very essential to keep in mind the whole progress of spotting.
* Stain removal rules
- When removing stains, dryside chemicals should always be used first. (Volatile dry-cleaning solvent, oil-soluble paint, amyl acetate)
- In case of wetside spotting (in other words, dryside chemicals not working), 28% of neutral synthetic detergent, acetate or tannin formula, rust remover, ammonia or protein formula, Digest. (In this case, wetside chemicals should be thoroughly rinsed off by steam and then dried to dry-clean, since wetside chemicals are insoluble to solvent.)
(5) Restoring fabric color
Color restoration is a professional technique for professional laundromats to be well-aware.
There are some cases where color restoration is necessary when dry-cleaning.
Partial bleaching may occur due to mistakes in spotting, or customers may demand for color restoration. It is therefore a must-have skill for professional laundromats to have. The techniques involve oil bath, dye pad, oil pad, dye pencil, charcoal or pastel, and dying.
- Mineral Oil Bath
A very effective means for lightly bleached fabrics such as silk. Mix 6 oz to 8 oz of mineral oil with 1 gal of solvent, soak clothing in for a few minutes and wash off. Then, dry at low temperature.
- Dye pad
Dye pad is available through suppliers, and is similar to powder puff soaked in oil and color.
When using dye pad, gently rub the bleached part. For some cases, cloth such as cheese cloth soaked in dye is used to rub the bleached part. It is better to rub many times then soak in huge amount of dye at once.
Dye pad sold in market lack in color variations, so colors should be mixed according to one’s needs. For example, if darker shade is wanted then add up black, or if orange color is wanted then mix up red and yellow.
When using dye pad, it is important to check the state of bleach. If original color of the fabric is purple and the bleached part shows red color, then add up a bit of blue hew. If pad is dried up, mix up 2 tsp of paraffin with solvent and pour it onto the pad.
- Oil pad
Oil pad is especially helpful to restore eroded bleaches of silk. It is made by soaking powder puff into the solution of mineral oil and dry-cleaning solvent by 1:4 and drying up in the equipment.
- Dye pencil
It can be purchased through suppliers or art stores.
Dye pencils are easy to use since they vary in color compared to pads. They can be used dry or steamed (put the pencil 1-2 inches far from the clothing and gently apply steam). In case of denim, if the bleached part is small then ball point pen can be used as well. For white fabrics, color with a white pencil as if drumming. Charcoals and pastels can be bought in art stores. These two especially work well with fluffy fabrics with soft hair.
- Dying
These days, there are not many dyers, so in some cases owners should do it on their own. Then, they should get signature from the customers on owner’s risk sign after explaining enough on what treatment they will do on clothing. It is essential to notify customers that the clothes undergoing this treatment is improper to wear. And in case of shrinking, size of clothes should be recorded in advance for later restoration.
There are some fabrics unavailable to dye. Natural fabric such as cotton, linen, wool, silk, and rayon mostly absorb dye well, while plastic fabric including polyester and acryl do not.
Buy “Tintex” available in supermarkets to dye. If color of clothes is light, then dying can make it deeper. However, if totally new color is wanted, then remove color with restorative bleachers such as titanium sulfate or sodium hydrosulphite to dye with a new color afterwards. If clothes get dried after dying, do oil-bath in order to add up deepness of color.
Add appropriate finish to the clothes and if shrinkage has occurred, restore it according to recorded measurements.
(6) 11 mistakes with spotting board
There are many mistakes taking place in laundromats but more mistakes occur especially with spotting. Mike Akin, the New England representative of Laidlaw has listed commonly occurring 11 mistakes despite easy preventive measures.
1st mistake
Wipe off POG with a steam gun.
→ POG is a dryside chemical, thus should not be used in humid areas.
If steam is used, another solvent of POG, alcohol is activated and may bleach colors.
POG should be wiped off with absolutely dehydrated perchloroethylene.
2nd mistake
Using perchloroethylene to test buttons or marbles.
→ Perchloroethylene’s chemical reaction is not instant; even if there were no abnormality observed during testing, clothing may get damaged after cleaning. Drop amyl acetate on the back side of button you want to test and then rub it with a finger.
3rd mistake
Using acidic formula after alkaline formula.
Alkaline formula has tendency of ingraining acidic stain, so always use acidic formula first. This is to avoid ingraining of protein stain.
4th mistake
Does not know if used chemical is dryside, neutral, acidic or alkaline.
If humid clothes are put into a washer, pollutants dissolved in solvent get re-attached to the wet areas. And even though this phenomenon is avoided, water rings are formed on clothes.
There are several ways to make leveling agent, and one of them is to mix 3 oz of charged soap with 9 oz of clean perc.
5th mistake
Using a steam gun too close to clothing.
Many cleaners are trapped in bad practice of using a steam gun too close to clothing as if they want to blow away the stains. The baseline of using a steam gun is to find the optimal distance by putting your hand close to the steam to figure out low temperature point, and use the gun keeping that distance.
If stains start to get erased at that distance, then gradually close up to the stain.
If steam guns are too close to stains regardless of their types, then fabrics may get damaged and stains can be ingrained as well.
6th mistake
“Not responsible for~”. If you hang these signs on the store, then take them off right away. Stores not being responsible to buttons, belts or leather are just incompetent. In cases of the clothes rarely seen in stores, explain problems to customers and separate them for special care from spotters. And if in any way it seems like there is no chance of restoring the clothes, then let customers go home.
7th mistake
Drying water-cleaned clothes in the boiler room, only to shrink the clothes. Causes for shrinkage include humidity, washer cleaning and heat. That is why cleaners run the washer for a short time and are still nervous to lay clothes to dry. With all the cautions and then drying the clothes in the boiler room where the temperature is the highest in the plant? What a silly thing.
8th mistake
Putting another laundry under the spotting board. It is not a proper place to put clothes. Prevailing risks of spilling water or chemicals. Hang them, or just fold them up in other places.
9th mistake
Having meals near the press or spotting table. Dine only in designated places.
10th mistake
Not using leveling agent often. If leveling agent is used properly, headache-causing water rings and redisposition of stains can be effectively prevented. Apply leveling agent to the clothing and wait for about 20 minutes for ordinary clothing, and 45 minutes for wool and thick curtains to put them into the washer afterwards.
11th mistake
Scratching with the end when using bone scraper. Rub with the side of bone scraper, and it is a must. One exception is for feille, since it should be rubbed in backwards to its grain.
11 mistakes of spotting board and results, proper ways
If it seems to go sticky, then it may melt down in the solvent while cleaning. If this is the case, run the washer for a short time, spot-clean, call your friend who uses petroleum or foot-cleans, or give it back to the customer. Whatever, deal with it on your own.
2.Various stains and how to spot
Below spotting methods are not absolute measures, but are descriptions for beginning spotters as well as all spotters.
1) wine stain
Regardless of color, including white, if wine stain is found on the clothing, apply tannin first, pat with brush and then wash off with steam. Afterwards, if sodium bysulphite mixed with water is added, then most of the stains are removable.
2) Wax
Most of the stains are removed when dry-cleaning but they may not be removed well if water-cleaned, so wash off most of the acetate with hot steam, add up wetspo and pat with brush. Stains are easily removed with water-cleaning afterwards.
3) Yellow Stain
Long-lasting yellow stain
1. White clothes: water-cleaning with chlorax bleacher will remove most of the stains.
2. Light color or light patterns: put sodium perborate powder on the stain and melt down the powder with heated steam gun without steam, and then apply rust remover to eliminate the stain without worrying about bleaching. The yellow stain here means tarnished stain due to food, and ingrained yellow stain on armpit does not work well with the above method.
4) ink
Most of the stains are removable with oil removers, but if oil remover sand protein removers are added, then reaction gets faster.
If ink waste is left on light-color clothing, add a bit of Titanium Stripper diluted by 20:1 with water and then add heat with a steam gun without steam to erase most of the stains. Highering up the concentration gradually to see effects. If the color is dark, never use Titanium Stripper. If used on white silk, add up a drop of rust remover to the solution. Deeply smeared ink on a pocket of white shirt can be removed with oil remover followed by crude Titanium Stripper and 10 minutes of water-cleaning with hot water along with chlorax bleaching.
5) Baked blood stains
Most of the stains are erased with BPR.
If blood stain baked by hot water or shirt machine is on the white shirt, then add digestive, leave it for 10 minutes and then remove it with steam. Afterwards, add rust remover to light up the stain, remove it again with steam, add up chlorax bleacher and apply heat once more to remove most of the baked blood stains.
6) Ball point pen ink stains
If the washer gets all messed up with ink because of a yet to be found pen in pocket, put 12 oz or 1 gal of POG in the tank and dry-clean for 30 minutes with bypass. Then, extract perc thoroughly, clean again with new perc, spot according to ink removal rules, and most of the stains are restored.
7) Ingrained stains in armpit
Put the clothing to spot on the spotting board and test if dye color changes. If safe, soak the spotting area a little and apply hydrogen peroxide on the area. Apply diluted ammonia on the area again, and gradually add heat with steam using a spotting gun. Then, the spot is miraculously vanished as it is expedited with heat. If necessary, repeat over. It is safe to neutralize with 30% of acetic acid (dilute by 3:1, 3 being water).
3. What is solvent(perchloroethylene)?
It is a dry-cleaning solvent widely used by Canadian laundromats. In English, it is called perchloroethylene, and chemical composition is CCL2. It is colorless and has unique odor. Boiling point is 121.2 degress Celcius, and specific gravity is 1.623, being heavier than water. It is incombustible. It is quite affinitive to water, and is blended with water a bit. Pure solvent is decomposed by sunlight and such to generate hydrochloric acid gas, but the ones sold in market usually contain tranquilizers. It is called “Solvent”.
1) Solving odor problems of Solvent
thinking of stained, messy clothing, it is no surprise that solvent stinks. If solvent is the same as laundry water, then it should be disposed right away but considering its expensive price and atmospheric pollution, it is impossible to dispose it right away and should keep track of the cause of odor to fix it.
2) Odor due to in volatile sediments
If volatile sediments exceed 2.5 g per 100ml of involatile sediments, then regardless of solvent and system type, foul odor may permeate through clothing. This type of odor can be first detected when giving a steam finish to cotton clothing. In this case, solving the problem is to distill charge solvent and rinse solvent more often in case of bath system.
3) Spotting chemical
Even though the concentration of involatile sediment is low, spotting chemicals may smell. However, in most cases business spotting and pre-spotting chemicals release odor only when the sediment concentration is high.
4) Redisposition of stains
Regardless of stain types, redisposition in washer occurs through a single path; when solvent is flushed down to the storage tank after washing, or rejuvenating solvent.
a) Effects of redisposition on laundry
- Greying of light-colored or white-colored clothing
- Foul odor from washed clothes
- Streaks or swales
b) Causes of redisposition
- Irregular distillation of solvent. Involatile sediments exceeding the criterion.
- Prevalence of involatile substances in the solvent due to ineffective filtration
- Aged substances in the solvent due to the amount of active carbon under criteria
- Non-compliance with laundry mass and laundry duration
c) Removing solvent pollutants
Redisposition is due to unsanitary solvent. Distill 7-8 gal of solvent per 100 lbs of laundry, regularly check solvent life cycle in filter, and keep it a rule to put 1 lbs of carbon per 300 lbs of laundry.
d) Solvent circulation speed and quality cleaning
- If solvent circulation speed is slow (circulation cycle being more than a minute), when solvent is circulated less than 10 times during laundry, speed of removing non-soluble stains is slowed down and the amount removed decreases. Low speed leads to less flow in solvent and it is less likely for stains to get removed. Moreover, concern of redisposition is raised.
- If the speed is too fast (circulation cycle being less than a minute), solvent is circulated more than needed so non-soluble stains bypass the filter in a fast speed, not being filtered, so it may reduce dry-cleaning quality.
※ Optimal quality-cleaning conditions
- Solvent circulation cycle to be kept at 1 min
- Amount of water per laundry 3.0 lbs/cu.ft(1.36kg/28.3L)
- 1 gal of solvent per 1 lbs (8.4L/kg)
- Approx. 10 times of solvent rotation per approx. 12 min of laundry
- Allowed non-soluble substances concentration is less than 25g/L for filtered solvent
- 1 lbs of active carbon to wash 280 lbs of laundry
- 7 gal of distilling per 100 lbs of laundry
4. Water-cleaning techniques for shirts
Shirts do not account for a large portion of laundromats’ revenue, but it is a conspicuous service item to customers. Thus, perfect shirts cleaning is what a successful laundromat to always keep an eye on.
1) Basic factors of perfect water-cleaning of shirts
a. Water temperature
Hot water is the most important factor in making a shirt clean. Heat expands fabric of the clothing in order to enable chemicals and water permeate through the clothing well.
< temperature categories>
Cotton and synthetic shirts of no vulnerability to bleaching : 125F~170F(52~77℃)
White and non-washable colored shirts : 90F~110F(32~41℃)
Deep-colored shirts and delicate clothing : cold water 80F(27℃)
b. Laundry time
Unless stains are naturally fallen off from the shirt, some time for chemicals to blend into detergent solution is needed. While conditions may differ, mostly proper laundry duration for white-colored clothing is 45 minutes with hot water, and proper time for deep-colored clothing is 10-25 minutes.
c. Mechanical vibration
Front-loading washer is more effective than top-loading washer. It is because clothes falling down from the top is just the same with drumming the laundry with laundry bats. This is called mechanical vibration. Unless the vibration damages shirts, stronger vibration works more effectively to separate pollutants from shirts. Therefore, amount of shirts put into the washer portionate to the washer capacity is highly affective to the vibration. Generally, 100 shirts per a 50-lbs wahser cost W10,000, so 90% of the capacity will give the best quality. For a washer with capacity over 25 lbs, put 7-12 shirts in the netbag for effectiveness.
d. Chemicals
It is important to retain break pH 11.5 (alkaline and surfactants being put in for the first time), and surge operation (adding detergent between first adding of alkaline and the last stage of bleaching) along with the last bleaching stage is very important. Using chemicals according to the color and delicacy of laundry is essential for better cleaning.
2) Purpose of using softener and sour
Using sour during water-cleaning is to remove alkaline soap from the laundry, and is done at the last stage of the laundry. Softeners are used to prevent statics, therfore unomittable.
3) The reason why shirt buttons break easily
1. Long pressing time due to low dehydration capability of shirts
2. Long pressing time due to low pressure of a boiler
3. Hardened padding
4. Lacking ability to distinguish easily breakable buttons
4) Problems of shirts laundry and solutions
- Yellowing of shirts: use blue pigments with sour or use brighteners.
- Greying due to redisposition: surge enough. Put only optimal amount of laundry into washer and it helps.
- Problem with classifying: separate clothes with color; white, light, deep
- Problem with water: iron and sediments in water deterioate laundry quality. Rusty stains due to those pollutants can be removed with hydroxyl or rust-removing sour. Use water-softener.
- Not enough stain removal: remain break surge pH at 11.5. For second and bleaching surge, water temperature should be kept at 160F and 150F, respectively. If these conditions are met, there will be no occasion to brush collar and cuffs.
- Bleaching: all bleachers should be used in optimal amount, retaining proper water temperature and pH value. Bleachers remove stains and kill of bacteria. But it cannot remove yet-to-be-erased stains left on the clothing during washing.
- Exceeding washer capacity: put 10%-15% less laundry than washer capacity.
- Too much in net bag: better to use net bags in shirt laundry.
: 7-9 shirts per a 25x36” net bag is enough
5) Increasing productivity of shirts
- Check if steam and air pressure is appropriate (all devices come with instructions describing proper amount of steam and air pressure)
- Check whether shirt unit is reasonably arranged
- Check timer setting (proper pressing time)
Sleeve press: 8-10 sec
Collor cuff: 18-20 sec
Body: 15-20 sec
- Regularly check if padding is clean and tensile enough
- Check if shirt is containing enough moisture for smooth finishing
How to use bleach bath
The last course for wetcleaner is bleacher.
It takes a lot of time to solve the big spot with spotting on the spotting board. So, cleaners can dip their clothes into the water with the appropriate spotting agent. In this case, diluting the bleach with water can be very effective. The last step of spotting, which is bleaching, is also the last subject in wet cleaning.
Strictly speaking, bleach is incapable of removing stains. Instead, it removes the color of the stain through a chemical reaction, resulting in the same effect as removing the stain.
Bleaching agents can be divided into oxidizing bleaches and reducing bleaches. Oxidizing bleach makes the stain colorless by binding the oxygen atoms to the oxidation, that is, the stain, as the name suggests.
Bleaching agents may cause fabric damage or discoloration and should be used with caution. Before use, be sure to check whether it is safe, cut a little piece of fabric in unseen parts, soak it in a steam gun and apply bleach for use. Adding heat or adding acid or alkaline can enhance the bleaching power, which should only be used for testing purposes. After bleaching, wipe clean with steam gun, dry with air and compare with original color. If there is no change in color, it is not a big problem to soak clothes in bleach diluent.
The use of bleach diluent is as follows.
1. First, clothes should be clean. Thoroughly wipe away any previously used spotting chemicals.
2. Check the fabric for safety first by referring to the charts and check whether the fabric is discolored by a pre-test.
3. Start with the bleach that corresponds to the stain to be removed from the weakest one.
4. Maintain the recommended concentration on the chart for testing and actual bleaching. Make sure that the bleach is completely dissolved before dipping the clothes into the diluent and care is taken to ensure that the clothing is completely submerged.
5. Bleach Removal from the diluted solution should be thoroughly rinsed with clean water to remove the bleach completely. If necessary, neutralize them as shown in the diagram.
6. There is no guarantee that all stains will be removed. The safety of the fabric and color is always the top priority, so do not be too obsessed.
Notes on using bleach
- Always bleach clean clothes.
- When you want to use another bleaching agent, rinse the used bleaching agent well.
- After bleaching agent is dissolved well, clothing should be dipped.
- Do not use bleach for metallic garments.
- When you use strong bleaching agent, watch your clothes carefully.
- After bleaching, rinse thoroughly to remove bleach completely.
- When using bleach, be sure to do a sample cloth test beforehand.
Oxidizing bleacher
(1) sodium perborate
A gentle oxidizing bleach is safe for all fabrics, but there may be problems with certain dyes.
Be careful because it can make the fluorescent brightener used for white silk and wool go yellow because it is alkaline.
Test method: Apply bleach powder to a sample of the fabric soaked with steam. Use the heat of the steam to increase the bleaching power, spray the steam gun pedal halfway and spray the gun at a distance of 1/4 of an inch from the powder (do not spray the steam hard, but lightly). The sample is wiped with steam, neutralized with 28% acetic acid and neutralized again with steam. Dry the sample thoroughly and compare it with the primary color.
Dilute Solution: Dissolve 1 oz. (One spoon) of sodium perborate powder in 1 gallon of water at 100F. Fill your clothes for 8 to 14 hours, but you can soak for longer if needed. After bleaching, rinse with clean water and neutralize 25% acetic acid with a few ounces of tannin. After neutralization, thoroughly rinse again with clean water.
(2) Hydrogen peroxide
It is a soft oxidizing bleaching agent that is safe for all fabrics and is safe for most of dyes.
However, for the sake of safety, we do discoloration tests. Hydrogen Peroxide should be stored in a cool, dry place sealed in a brown bottle.
Hydrogen Peroxide becomes liquidized when it comes into contact with sunlight or air.
Test method: Apply 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to the fabric sample. Apply 28% ammonia to enhance bleaching power. Wipe the sample clean, then dry and compare it with the primary color.
How to use: 1 oz. Of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide or 10 oz. Of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide in one gallon of water at 100F. You can dip your clothes for 30 to 3 hours, but you can soak for longer if you need to. After bleaching, rinse with clean water.
(3) Sodium hypochlorite
Sodium hypochlorite (chlorine) is a very powerful oxidizing bleaching agent and is not used for wool, silk and nylon. Colored clothes are all dangerous and must be tested for discoloration.
Test method: Chlorine bleach (chlorox) is usually sold at 5% concentration. For the test, 1% solution is needed, so dilute 1: 4 with water. Add diluted chlorox to the fabric sample to enhance bleaching power using 28% acetic acid. Thoroughly wipe the bleach from the sample.
Use a chlorine scavenger after the rinse, as it may damage the fabric if it remains.
Chlorine scavengers are made with 28% acetic acid and 1% sodium bisulfite.
Chlorine scavengers neutralize the alkaline and oxidized chlorine. If 1% sodium bisulfite is not available, at least acetic acid should be used.
How to use: Dip two ounces of stripper into 5 gallons of water at 100F. Put out the clothes as soon as the stain is lost. After cleansing clothes, rinse thoroughly so that no bleach remains. If you want a stronger whiteness to the fabric, use 1 ounce of Stripper in 1 gallon of water at 212 F.
Cautions for bleach spotting
(1) Clean up the spotting part first.
(2) Wipe out thoroughly the remaining bleacher to use another bleacher. Acidic bleacher and restorative bleacher offset each other so do not use them together.
Solutions for problematic fabric
1. Gabardine
Purpose: to avoid glittering
Procedure: do not use vacuum while head of the pressing machine is locked. Do not lock head if clothing is single-layered. If wrinkles are needed, press the head but do not lock. For double-layered surface, do not put pressure on the head.
Adjustment: If it is shiny, use the steam below while brushing with a velvet brush and spray the water like mist.
2. Velvet
Purpose: to avoid file being flat
Procedure: do not put pression on the head. Do not spray water. Do not touch the clothing when it is hot.
Adjustment: flattened acetate file cannot be modified. To adjust file clothing other than acetate, spray water lightly and brush with a velvet brush.
3. Acrylic knits
Purpose: to avoid stretching
Procedure: when there is a bit of warmth left, do not move clothing on the buck. Give a bit of steam under the clothing. Give steam over the clothing when head is not touching the clothing and down. Do not hang acrylic clothing on acryl.
Adjustment: not available.
4. Cotton and rayon
Purpose: smooth finishing and avoid being burned
Procedure: Sprinkle water on the fabric like a mist. Lock the head. While the head is down, give steam and step on the stomach. Cotton and rayon sometimes need sizing. Before using your hand iron, use leftover steam for a few seconds on the iron. It does not give excessive heat.
Adjustment: Repeat the instructions above to remove wrinkles. Use a 3% peroxide solution with ammonia to adjust burns, and use rust remover and diluted hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) if necessary.
10. Knitted waistbands
Purpose: to avoid being stretched
Procedure: do not use acryl. Do not stretch wasitband when put on the press.
Use pumper for the last touch-up.
Adjustment: generally unavailable.
11. Imitation fur pile
Purpose: avoid matting (attaching together) and melting of fabric
Procedure: do not give a steam or brush.
Adjustment: generally unavailable. Try brushing on one side.
12. Suede and leather
Purpose: avoid being stiffened
Procedure: do not give steam. Press with the head.
Adjustment: try with leather softener. Finishing touch.
It is nearly impossible to remove all the stains by only washing with dry-cleaning washer. Therefore, partially removing stains before and after dry-cleaning using special chemicals is necessary.
This is called spotting. The reason why customers use laundromats is mostly because to remove stains, so it is to be noted that this stage is the most important one during the whole washing process.
(1) equipment used in spotting
1) Spotting board
2) Spotting gun
3) Spray spotter
4) Spotting brush
5) Spatula
6) Towel
7) beaker, cotton and etc.
(2) Chemicals used in spotting
It is a common thing for laundromats to worry about ruined clothing, which means if there is no damages occurred to clothing, everything will be fine for the business owners. Then what is the main culprit for damaging clothing? It is mostly due to choosing improper chemicals. Thus, it is necessary to have appropriate understanding in chemicals.
A. Neutral lubricant: it is a so-called spray soap. This fosters the solvent to remove stains during washing by being applied to dryside stains or wetside stains which are easy to remove before getting dry-cleaned. Common market products are mostly recommended to use in the form mixture containing water in portion of 1:4(water). They are put into spray spotter for use.
B. Dryside chemicals
They are used to remove dryside stains as they rarely contain water. (Examples of oil stain: ink, lipstick, grease, cooking oil and etc.) Dryside chemicals currently sold differ in their capacities by brands so they should be chosen according to the type of fabrics or stains.
If strong chemicals are used to remove stains well, clothing susceptible to bleaching may lose its color with stain only to ruin the whole clothing. That is why in this case chemicals safe from bleaching should be used even though some of the stains may remain.
C. Wetside chemicals
Most of these chemicals are used in mixture of water in order to remove wetside stains. Wetside chemicals include acidic and alkaline chemicals.
1) Acidic chemicals (TAN) – easily dissolved in water
- Turns a litmus paper red.
- Used to remove tannin stains such as drink, juice, coffee and wine
- Restores tarnishing due to alkaline
- Insoluble to solvent; remove after using chemicals and then put into dry-cleaning
- Used for alkaline neutralization
2) alkaline chemicals (BPR)
- Easily dissolved in water
- Turnsa litmus paper blue
- Usedto remove protein stains such as milk, urine, blood and food
- Restores tarnishing due to acid
- Insoluble to solvent; remove after using chemicals and then put into dry-cleaning
- Used for acidic neutralization
- If used to pure wool or silk, should be neutralized with acidic chemicals to prevent yellowing
D. Enzyme agents: Digester in English, stain remover containing enzymes. Enzymes are special protein made in living organisms to break down minerals. Certain stains are removed only with enzymes.
1) Use of digester
Applied to protein and starch stains difficult to remove, such as blood, egg, milk, cream, vomitus, urine, swet and etc. Also can be used to alkaline-sensitive fabric or colors.
2) 4 conditions of enzyme reactions
- Neutral without acid or alkaline
- Contains moisture
- Optimal temperature
- Enough time for reaction
3) How to use digester
3 Ways to use digester powder
a. Pre-spotting
Put 1 tsp of digester powder into 8 oz of warm water (110-110F), or mix with 4 oz of water / 4 oz of neutral lublicrant and put it into spray. Digester solution should be made everyday.
Apply solution on stain and let the clothing in a warm place for approx. 15-20 minutes. Be cautious not to dry out thestain and apply leveling agent (mix a dry-cleaning detergent and pure solvent in the portion of 3:7). Remove stain after 15-20 minutes with protein chemical and finally clean.
b. Digester bath
Mix 1 tsp of Digester with 1 gal of warm water (100~110F). Soak clothing for 15-20 minutes, rinse and then dry.
c.Spotting board
Lay a clean towel under the stain. Soak it with warm water. Put small amount of powder Digester and a few drops of a netural lubricant. Gently rub it with a spatula. Apply heat with a steam gun far from the clothing about 10-12 inches. Cover it with another towel. Leave it for 15-20 minutes. Rinse with steam, dry well and then dry-clean.
How to use liquid type Digester
a. Spotting board
Rinse the stain with water or steam to remove other spotting chemicals.
Directly apply the liquid Digester onto the stain. Heat it up with a steam gun far from the clothing about 4-5 inches.
Pay attention not to scatter Digester. Leave it for about 30 minutes.
Use BPR, wash it off, dry and then dry-clean.
b. Digest Bath 방식 Digest bath
Mix 1 tbsp of liquid Digester with 1 gal of warm water.
Rinse off other chemicals remaining on clothing. Soak the clothing in for about 10-30 minutes. Rinse off with steam or water and then dry.
c. Submerging
In case of washable clothing, mix 1 oz of liquid Digester with 6 gal of warm water and soak the clothing in about 10-30 minutes. Add up reasonable amount of detergent and wash as usual.
E. Ingredients of General Formula
1) Ingredients of General Formula
Acetic acid, lactate, hydroxyl, butylalcohol, methylalcohol. As such, General Formula consists of 3 acidic chemicals and 2 alcoholic substances.
2) Stains which General Formula can remove
a. Stubborn tannin stains (deep-seated ones which 28% of acetic acid cannot remove)
b. Stains removable with hydroxyl
c. Yellow oxidized stains on white clothing
d. Ingrained stain including nitrocellulose, selectin, resin. (Applicable to all types of stains excluding protein stains. Complex stains removable. Since yellow oxidized stains on acetate fabric as well as white fabrics are mostly removed by General Formula, rather than blindly using bleachers using General Formula beforehand is more ideal.)
3) How to use General Formula
a. Mechanical action: Gently rub with spatula or pat it with brush.
b. Fostering effects: after mechanical action, apply heat with a steam gun.
c. Flushing: Much caution is needed when washing off General Formula. Even a bit of hydroxyl in General Formula left on clothing turns into tiny powder and penetrates into fabric, thereby cutting off knots in fabric. It is therefore essential to wash the product off thoroughly after use.
4) General caution when using General Formula
- The product shouldn’t be used with alkaline spotting chemicals or alkaline bleachers. If combined with alkaline chemicals, neutralization occurs due to reaction with 3 acids in the solution and thereby producing poisonous carbon monoxide or carbon dioxide gas.
-Excessive mechanical action after using General Formula on colored fabric should be avoided.
-Excessive mechanical action on colored acetate fabric or dark-colored plant fabric may induce bleaching.
-Even though it is white-colored, on the acetate fabric, using a steam gun too close to the clothing after using General Formula should be avoided. Let at least 4 inches of distance be far from the clothing. Especially when excessive steam is applied to a dark-colored fabric after using General Formula, bleaching takes place almost with no doubt.
-Avoid applying perchloroethylene or dry-cleaning solvent consecutively after using General Formula on stain. Except for the purpose of flushing, if General Formula is used with perchloroethylene or dry-cleaning solvent, alcohol in General Formula solution melts down and spoils the solution.
(3) Correlation between fabric and chemicals
A good spotter knows well about the correlation between fabric, stain and used chemicals.
It is because neutralizing tarnished colors due to chemicals and effective stain removal is directly related to characters of fabric and chemicals.
1) Types of fabric
a. Plant fabric (Cellulose) - acidic character Cotton Linen Rayon, Ramie
b. Animal fabric - alkaline character Wool, silk, Leather
c. Half-synthetic fabric - Acetate(synthesizing plant fabric including cotton by processing with acetate)
d. Synthetic fabric: Polyester, Nylon, Acryl, Olefin(for funiture such as couch cover)
2)Characters of chemicals used
a. Acidic chemicals – 28% of acetate or tannin formula
- General Formula
- Rust Remover b. Alkaline chemical – 26% of ammonia
- Protein Formula c. Neutral – neutral detergent put into spray spotter for use
(4) Proper spotting and rules for stain removal
Spotting is the most important stage and the most dangerous part of dry-cleaning. It is therefore very essential to keep in mind the whole progress of spotting.
* Stain removal rules
- When removing stains, dryside chemicals should always be used first. (Volatile dry-cleaning solvent, oil-soluble paint, amyl acetate)
- In case of wetside spotting (in other words, dryside chemicals not working), 28% of neutral synthetic detergent, acetate or tannin formula, rust remover, ammonia or protein formula, Digest. (In this case, wetside chemicals should be thoroughly rinsed off by steam and then dried to dry-clean, since wetside chemicals are insoluble to solvent.)
(5) Restoring fabric color
Color restoration is a professional technique for professional laundromats to be well-aware.
There are some cases where color restoration is necessary when dry-cleaning.
Partial bleaching may occur due to mistakes in spotting, or customers may demand for color restoration. It is therefore a must-have skill for professional laundromats to have. The techniques involve oil bath, dye pad, oil pad, dye pencil, charcoal or pastel, and dying.
- Mineral Oil Bath
A very effective means for lightly bleached fabrics such as silk. Mix 6 oz to 8 oz of mineral oil with 1 gal of solvent, soak clothing in for a few minutes and wash off. Then, dry at low temperature.
- Dye pad
Dye pad is available through suppliers, and is similar to powder puff soaked in oil and color.
When using dye pad, gently rub the bleached part. For some cases, cloth such as cheese cloth soaked in dye is used to rub the bleached part. It is better to rub many times then soak in huge amount of dye at once.
Dye pad sold in market lack in color variations, so colors should be mixed according to one’s needs. For example, if darker shade is wanted then add up black, or if orange color is wanted then mix up red and yellow.
When using dye pad, it is important to check the state of bleach. If original color of the fabric is purple and the bleached part shows red color, then add up a bit of blue hew. If pad is dried up, mix up 2 tsp of paraffin with solvent and pour it onto the pad.
- Oil pad
Oil pad is especially helpful to restore eroded bleaches of silk. It is made by soaking powder puff into the solution of mineral oil and dry-cleaning solvent by 1:4 and drying up in the equipment.
- Dye pencil
It can be purchased through suppliers or art stores.
Dye pencils are easy to use since they vary in color compared to pads. They can be used dry or steamed (put the pencil 1-2 inches far from the clothing and gently apply steam). In case of denim, if the bleached part is small then ball point pen can be used as well. For white fabrics, color with a white pencil as if drumming. Charcoals and pastels can be bought in art stores. These two especially work well with fluffy fabrics with soft hair.
- Dying
These days, there are not many dyers, so in some cases owners should do it on their own. Then, they should get signature from the customers on owner’s risk sign after explaining enough on what treatment they will do on clothing. It is essential to notify customers that the clothes undergoing this treatment is improper to wear. And in case of shrinking, size of clothes should be recorded in advance for later restoration.
There are some fabrics unavailable to dye. Natural fabric such as cotton, linen, wool, silk, and rayon mostly absorb dye well, while plastic fabric including polyester and acryl do not.
Buy “Tintex” available in supermarkets to dye. If color of clothes is light, then dying can make it deeper. However, if totally new color is wanted, then remove color with restorative bleachers such as titanium sulfate or sodium hydrosulphite to dye with a new color afterwards. If clothes get dried after dying, do oil-bath in order to add up deepness of color.
Add appropriate finish to the clothes and if shrinkage has occurred, restore it according to recorded measurements.
(6) 11 mistakes with spotting board
There are many mistakes taking place in laundromats but more mistakes occur especially with spotting. Mike Akin, the New England representative of Laidlaw has listed commonly occurring 11 mistakes despite easy preventive measures.
1st mistake
Wipe off POG with a steam gun.
→ POG is a dryside chemical, thus should not be used in humid areas.
If steam is used, another solvent of POG, alcohol is activated and may bleach colors.
POG should be wiped off with absolutely dehydrated perchloroethylene.
2nd mistake
Using perchloroethylene to test buttons or marbles.
→ Perchloroethylene’s chemical reaction is not instant; even if there were no abnormality observed during testing, clothing may get damaged after cleaning. Drop amyl acetate on the back side of button you want to test and then rub it with a finger.
3rd mistake
Using acidic formula after alkaline formula.
Alkaline formula has tendency of ingraining acidic stain, so always use acidic formula first. This is to avoid ingraining of protein stain.
4th mistake
Does not know if used chemical is dryside, neutral, acidic or alkaline.
If humid clothes are put into a washer, pollutants dissolved in solvent get re-attached to the wet areas. And even though this phenomenon is avoided, water rings are formed on clothes.
There are several ways to make leveling agent, and one of them is to mix 3 oz of charged soap with 9 oz of clean perc.
5th mistake
Using a steam gun too close to clothing.
Many cleaners are trapped in bad practice of using a steam gun too close to clothing as if they want to blow away the stains. The baseline of using a steam gun is to find the optimal distance by putting your hand close to the steam to figure out low temperature point, and use the gun keeping that distance.
If stains start to get erased at that distance, then gradually close up to the stain.
If steam guns are too close to stains regardless of their types, then fabrics may get damaged and stains can be ingrained as well.
6th mistake
“Not responsible for~”. If you hang these signs on the store, then take them off right away. Stores not being responsible to buttons, belts or leather are just incompetent. In cases of the clothes rarely seen in stores, explain problems to customers and separate them for special care from spotters. And if in any way it seems like there is no chance of restoring the clothes, then let customers go home.
7th mistake
Drying water-cleaned clothes in the boiler room, only to shrink the clothes. Causes for shrinkage include humidity, washer cleaning and heat. That is why cleaners run the washer for a short time and are still nervous to lay clothes to dry. With all the cautions and then drying the clothes in the boiler room where the temperature is the highest in the plant? What a silly thing.
8th mistake
Putting another laundry under the spotting board. It is not a proper place to put clothes. Prevailing risks of spilling water or chemicals. Hang them, or just fold them up in other places.
9th mistake
Having meals near the press or spotting table. Dine only in designated places.
10th mistake
Not using leveling agent often. If leveling agent is used properly, headache-causing water rings and redisposition of stains can be effectively prevented. Apply leveling agent to the clothing and wait for about 20 minutes for ordinary clothing, and 45 minutes for wool and thick curtains to put them into the washer afterwards.
11th mistake
Scratching with the end when using bone scraper. Rub with the side of bone scraper, and it is a must. One exception is for feille, since it should be rubbed in backwards to its grain.
11 mistakes of spotting board and results, proper ways
If it seems to go sticky, then it may melt down in the solvent while cleaning. If this is the case, run the washer for a short time, spot-clean, call your friend who uses petroleum or foot-cleans, or give it back to the customer. Whatever, deal with it on your own.
2.Various stains and how to spot
Below spotting methods are not absolute measures, but are descriptions for beginning spotters as well as all spotters.
1) wine stain
Regardless of color, including white, if wine stain is found on the clothing, apply tannin first, pat with brush and then wash off with steam. Afterwards, if sodium bysulphite mixed with water is added, then most of the stains are removable.
2) Wax
Most of the stains are removed when dry-cleaning but they may not be removed well if water-cleaned, so wash off most of the acetate with hot steam, add up wetspo and pat with brush. Stains are easily removed with water-cleaning afterwards.
3) Yellow Stain
Long-lasting yellow stain
1. White clothes: water-cleaning with chlorax bleacher will remove most of the stains.
2. Light color or light patterns: put sodium perborate powder on the stain and melt down the powder with heated steam gun without steam, and then apply rust remover to eliminate the stain without worrying about bleaching. The yellow stain here means tarnished stain due to food, and ingrained yellow stain on armpit does not work well with the above method.
4) ink
Most of the stains are removable with oil removers, but if oil remover sand protein removers are added, then reaction gets faster.
If ink waste is left on light-color clothing, add a bit of Titanium Stripper diluted by 20:1 with water and then add heat with a steam gun without steam to erase most of the stains. Highering up the concentration gradually to see effects. If the color is dark, never use Titanium Stripper. If used on white silk, add up a drop of rust remover to the solution. Deeply smeared ink on a pocket of white shirt can be removed with oil remover followed by crude Titanium Stripper and 10 minutes of water-cleaning with hot water along with chlorax bleaching.
5) Baked blood stains
Most of the stains are erased with BPR.
If blood stain baked by hot water or shirt machine is on the white shirt, then add digestive, leave it for 10 minutes and then remove it with steam. Afterwards, add rust remover to light up the stain, remove it again with steam, add up chlorax bleacher and apply heat once more to remove most of the baked blood stains.
6) Ball point pen ink stains
If the washer gets all messed up with ink because of a yet to be found pen in pocket, put 12 oz or 1 gal of POG in the tank and dry-clean for 30 minutes with bypass. Then, extract perc thoroughly, clean again with new perc, spot according to ink removal rules, and most of the stains are restored.
7) Ingrained stains in armpit
Put the clothing to spot on the spotting board and test if dye color changes. If safe, soak the spotting area a little and apply hydrogen peroxide on the area. Apply diluted ammonia on the area again, and gradually add heat with steam using a spotting gun. Then, the spot is miraculously vanished as it is expedited with heat. If necessary, repeat over. It is safe to neutralize with 30% of acetic acid (dilute by 3:1, 3 being water).
3. What is solvent(perchloroethylene)?
It is a dry-cleaning solvent widely used by Canadian laundromats. In English, it is called perchloroethylene, and chemical composition is CCL2. It is colorless and has unique odor. Boiling point is 121.2 degress Celcius, and specific gravity is 1.623, being heavier than water. It is incombustible. It is quite affinitive to water, and is blended with water a bit. Pure solvent is decomposed by sunlight and such to generate hydrochloric acid gas, but the ones sold in market usually contain tranquilizers. It is called “Solvent”.
1) Solving odor problems of Solvent
thinking of stained, messy clothing, it is no surprise that solvent stinks. If solvent is the same as laundry water, then it should be disposed right away but considering its expensive price and atmospheric pollution, it is impossible to dispose it right away and should keep track of the cause of odor to fix it.
2) Odor due to in volatile sediments
If volatile sediments exceed 2.5 g per 100ml of involatile sediments, then regardless of solvent and system type, foul odor may permeate through clothing. This type of odor can be first detected when giving a steam finish to cotton clothing. In this case, solving the problem is to distill charge solvent and rinse solvent more often in case of bath system.
3) Spotting chemical
Even though the concentration of involatile sediment is low, spotting chemicals may smell. However, in most cases business spotting and pre-spotting chemicals release odor only when the sediment concentration is high.
4) Redisposition of stains
Regardless of stain types, redisposition in washer occurs through a single path; when solvent is flushed down to the storage tank after washing, or rejuvenating solvent.
a) Effects of redisposition on laundry
- Greying of light-colored or white-colored clothing
- Foul odor from washed clothes
- Streaks or swales
b) Causes of redisposition
- Irregular distillation of solvent. Involatile sediments exceeding the criterion.
- Prevalence of involatile substances in the solvent due to ineffective filtration
- Aged substances in the solvent due to the amount of active carbon under criteria
- Non-compliance with laundry mass and laundry duration
c) Removing solvent pollutants
Redisposition is due to unsanitary solvent. Distill 7-8 gal of solvent per 100 lbs of laundry, regularly check solvent life cycle in filter, and keep it a rule to put 1 lbs of carbon per 300 lbs of laundry.
d) Solvent circulation speed and quality cleaning
- If solvent circulation speed is slow (circulation cycle being more than a minute), when solvent is circulated less than 10 times during laundry, speed of removing non-soluble stains is slowed down and the amount removed decreases. Low speed leads to less flow in solvent and it is less likely for stains to get removed. Moreover, concern of redisposition is raised.
- If the speed is too fast (circulation cycle being less than a minute), solvent is circulated more than needed so non-soluble stains bypass the filter in a fast speed, not being filtered, so it may reduce dry-cleaning quality.
※ Optimal quality-cleaning conditions
- Solvent circulation cycle to be kept at 1 min
- Amount of water per laundry 3.0 lbs/cu.ft(1.36kg/28.3L)
- 1 gal of solvent per 1 lbs (8.4L/kg)
- Approx. 10 times of solvent rotation per approx. 12 min of laundry
- Allowed non-soluble substances concentration is less than 25g/L for filtered solvent
- 1 lbs of active carbon to wash 280 lbs of laundry
- 7 gal of distilling per 100 lbs of laundry
4. Water-cleaning techniques for shirts
Shirts do not account for a large portion of laundromats’ revenue, but it is a conspicuous service item to customers. Thus, perfect shirts cleaning is what a successful laundromat to always keep an eye on.
1) Basic factors of perfect water-cleaning of shirts
a. Water temperature
Hot water is the most important factor in making a shirt clean. Heat expands fabric of the clothing in order to enable chemicals and water permeate through the clothing well.
< temperature categories>
Cotton and synthetic shirts of no vulnerability to bleaching : 125F~170F(52~77℃)
White and non-washable colored shirts : 90F~110F(32~41℃)
Deep-colored shirts and delicate clothing : cold water 80F(27℃)
b. Laundry time
Unless stains are naturally fallen off from the shirt, some time for chemicals to blend into detergent solution is needed. While conditions may differ, mostly proper laundry duration for white-colored clothing is 45 minutes with hot water, and proper time for deep-colored clothing is 10-25 minutes.
c. Mechanical vibration
Front-loading washer is more effective than top-loading washer. It is because clothes falling down from the top is just the same with drumming the laundry with laundry bats. This is called mechanical vibration. Unless the vibration damages shirts, stronger vibration works more effectively to separate pollutants from shirts. Therefore, amount of shirts put into the washer portionate to the washer capacity is highly affective to the vibration. Generally, 100 shirts per a 50-lbs wahser cost W10,000, so 90% of the capacity will give the best quality. For a washer with capacity over 25 lbs, put 7-12 shirts in the netbag for effectiveness.
d. Chemicals
It is important to retain break pH 11.5 (alkaline and surfactants being put in for the first time), and surge operation (adding detergent between first adding of alkaline and the last stage of bleaching) along with the last bleaching stage is very important. Using chemicals according to the color and delicacy of laundry is essential for better cleaning.
2) Purpose of using softener and sour
Using sour during water-cleaning is to remove alkaline soap from the laundry, and is done at the last stage of the laundry. Softeners are used to prevent statics, therfore unomittable.
3) The reason why shirt buttons break easily
1. Long pressing time due to low dehydration capability of shirts
2. Long pressing time due to low pressure of a boiler
3. Hardened padding
4. Lacking ability to distinguish easily breakable buttons
4) Problems of shirts laundry and solutions
- Yellowing of shirts: use blue pigments with sour or use brighteners.
- Greying due to redisposition: surge enough. Put only optimal amount of laundry into washer and it helps.
- Problem with classifying: separate clothes with color; white, light, deep
- Problem with water: iron and sediments in water deterioate laundry quality. Rusty stains due to those pollutants can be removed with hydroxyl or rust-removing sour. Use water-softener.
- Not enough stain removal: remain break surge pH at 11.5. For second and bleaching surge, water temperature should be kept at 160F and 150F, respectively. If these conditions are met, there will be no occasion to brush collar and cuffs.
- Bleaching: all bleachers should be used in optimal amount, retaining proper water temperature and pH value. Bleachers remove stains and kill of bacteria. But it cannot remove yet-to-be-erased stains left on the clothing during washing.
- Exceeding washer capacity: put 10%-15% less laundry than washer capacity.
- Too much in net bag: better to use net bags in shirt laundry.
: 7-9 shirts per a 25x36” net bag is enough
5) Increasing productivity of shirts
- Check if steam and air pressure is appropriate (all devices come with instructions describing proper amount of steam and air pressure)
- Check whether shirt unit is reasonably arranged
- Check timer setting (proper pressing time)
Sleeve press: 8-10 sec
Collor cuff: 18-20 sec
Body: 15-20 sec
- Regularly check if padding is clean and tensile enough
- Check if shirt is containing enough moisture for smooth finishing
How to use bleach bath
The last course for wetcleaner is bleacher.
It takes a lot of time to solve the big spot with spotting on the spotting board. So, cleaners can dip their clothes into the water with the appropriate spotting agent. In this case, diluting the bleach with water can be very effective. The last step of spotting, which is bleaching, is also the last subject in wet cleaning.
Strictly speaking, bleach is incapable of removing stains. Instead, it removes the color of the stain through a chemical reaction, resulting in the same effect as removing the stain.
Bleaching agents can be divided into oxidizing bleaches and reducing bleaches. Oxidizing bleach makes the stain colorless by binding the oxygen atoms to the oxidation, that is, the stain, as the name suggests.
Bleaching agents may cause fabric damage or discoloration and should be used with caution. Before use, be sure to check whether it is safe, cut a little piece of fabric in unseen parts, soak it in a steam gun and apply bleach for use. Adding heat or adding acid or alkaline can enhance the bleaching power, which should only be used for testing purposes. After bleaching, wipe clean with steam gun, dry with air and compare with original color. If there is no change in color, it is not a big problem to soak clothes in bleach diluent.
The use of bleach diluent is as follows.
1. First, clothes should be clean. Thoroughly wipe away any previously used spotting chemicals.
2. Check the fabric for safety first by referring to the charts and check whether the fabric is discolored by a pre-test.
3. Start with the bleach that corresponds to the stain to be removed from the weakest one.
4. Maintain the recommended concentration on the chart for testing and actual bleaching. Make sure that the bleach is completely dissolved before dipping the clothes into the diluent and care is taken to ensure that the clothing is completely submerged.
5. Bleach Removal from the diluted solution should be thoroughly rinsed with clean water to remove the bleach completely. If necessary, neutralize them as shown in the diagram.
6. There is no guarantee that all stains will be removed. The safety of the fabric and color is always the top priority, so do not be too obsessed.
Notes on using bleach
- Always bleach clean clothes.
- When you want to use another bleaching agent, rinse the used bleaching agent well.
- After bleaching agent is dissolved well, clothing should be dipped.
- Do not use bleach for metallic garments.
- When you use strong bleaching agent, watch your clothes carefully.
- After bleaching, rinse thoroughly to remove bleach completely.
- When using bleach, be sure to do a sample cloth test beforehand.
Oxidizing bleacher
(1) sodium perborate
A gentle oxidizing bleach is safe for all fabrics, but there may be problems with certain dyes.
Be careful because it can make the fluorescent brightener used for white silk and wool go yellow because it is alkaline.
Test method: Apply bleach powder to a sample of the fabric soaked with steam. Use the heat of the steam to increase the bleaching power, spray the steam gun pedal halfway and spray the gun at a distance of 1/4 of an inch from the powder (do not spray the steam hard, but lightly). The sample is wiped with steam, neutralized with 28% acetic acid and neutralized again with steam. Dry the sample thoroughly and compare it with the primary color.
Dilute Solution: Dissolve 1 oz. (One spoon) of sodium perborate powder in 1 gallon of water at 100F. Fill your clothes for 8 to 14 hours, but you can soak for longer if needed. After bleaching, rinse with clean water and neutralize 25% acetic acid with a few ounces of tannin. After neutralization, thoroughly rinse again with clean water.
(2) Hydrogen peroxide
It is a soft oxidizing bleaching agent that is safe for all fabrics and is safe for most of dyes.
However, for the sake of safety, we do discoloration tests. Hydrogen Peroxide should be stored in a cool, dry place sealed in a brown bottle.
Hydrogen Peroxide becomes liquidized when it comes into contact with sunlight or air.
Test method: Apply 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to the fabric sample. Apply 28% ammonia to enhance bleaching power. Wipe the sample clean, then dry and compare it with the primary color.
How to use: 1 oz. Of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide or 10 oz. Of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide in one gallon of water at 100F. You can dip your clothes for 30 to 3 hours, but you can soak for longer if you need to. After bleaching, rinse with clean water.
(3) Sodium hypochlorite
Sodium hypochlorite (chlorine) is a very powerful oxidizing bleaching agent and is not used for wool, silk and nylon. Colored clothes are all dangerous and must be tested for discoloration.
Test method: Chlorine bleach (chlorox) is usually sold at 5% concentration. For the test, 1% solution is needed, so dilute 1: 4 with water. Add diluted chlorox to the fabric sample to enhance bleaching power using 28% acetic acid. Thoroughly wipe the bleach from the sample.
Use a chlorine scavenger after the rinse, as it may damage the fabric if it remains.
Chlorine scavengers are made with 28% acetic acid and 1% sodium bisulfite.
Chlorine scavengers neutralize the alkaline and oxidized chlorine. If 1% sodium bisulfite is not available, at least acetic acid should be used.
How to use: Dip two ounces of stripper into 5 gallons of water at 100F. Put out the clothes as soon as the stain is lost. After cleansing clothes, rinse thoroughly so that no bleach remains. If you want a stronger whiteness to the fabric, use 1 ounce of Stripper in 1 gallon of water at 212 F.
Cautions for bleach spotting
(1) Clean up the spotting part first.
(2) Wipe out thoroughly the remaining bleacher to use another bleacher. Acidic bleacher and restorative bleacher offset each other so do not use them together.
Solutions for problematic fabric
1. Gabardine
Purpose: to avoid glittering
Procedure: do not use vacuum while head of the pressing machine is locked. Do not lock head if clothing is single-layered. If wrinkles are needed, press the head but do not lock. For double-layered surface, do not put pressure on the head.
Adjustment: If it is shiny, use the steam below while brushing with a velvet brush and spray the water like mist.
2. Velvet
Purpose: to avoid file being flat
Procedure: do not put pression on the head. Do not spray water. Do not touch the clothing when it is hot.
Adjustment: flattened acetate file cannot be modified. To adjust file clothing other than acetate, spray water lightly and brush with a velvet brush.
3. Acrylic knits
Purpose: to avoid stretching
Procedure: when there is a bit of warmth left, do not move clothing on the buck. Give a bit of steam under the clothing. Give steam over the clothing when head is not touching the clothing and down. Do not hang acrylic clothing on acryl.
Adjustment: not available.
4. Cotton and rayon
Purpose: smooth finishing and avoid being burned
Procedure: Sprinkle water on the fabric like a mist. Lock the head. While the head is down, give steam and step on the stomach. Cotton and rayon sometimes need sizing. Before using your hand iron, use leftover steam for a few seconds on the iron. It does not give excessive heat.
Adjustment: Repeat the instructions above to remove wrinkles. Use a 3% peroxide solution with ammonia to adjust burns, and use rust remover and diluted hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) if necessary.
10. Knitted waistbands
Purpose: to avoid being stretched
Procedure: do not use acryl. Do not stretch wasitband when put on the press.
Use pumper for the last touch-up.
Adjustment: generally unavailable.
11. Imitation fur pile
Purpose: avoid matting (attaching together) and melting of fabric
Procedure: do not give a steam or brush.
Adjustment: generally unavailable. Try brushing on one side.
12. Suede and leather
Purpose: avoid being stiffened
Procedure: do not give steam. Press with the head.
Adjustment: try with leather softener. Finishing touch.
